The traditional house of Korea, hanok, comes from a building culture that was created in response to the distinct four seasons in Korea, where both extreme hot weather and cold weather exist. To cope with this climate, an underground flooring system (ondol) is installed in part of the house for the winter, and during the summer, the house has a separate living area with a wooden-floored hall (daechong maru). The term hanok (Korean house) is used to distinguish traditional Korean homes from Western-style architecture (yangok). Hanok are unique to the country, differing from architecture found in Japan and China.
In the past, the structure of residential buildings reflected Neo-Confucian ideology. This system of social and ethical philosophy became the state ideology in the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910) in the late 14th century. It clearly differentiates between the status of master and servant, man and woman, and senior and junior. Aristocratic residences were erected high above the ground to emphasise the social hierarchy between the upper and lower classes. The houses of the nobility also had higher foundations than the dwellings of servants. The difference in height forced anyone standing in the courtyard to look up to see a person present in the main hall. Room dimensions also varied. For instance, the patriarch’s rooms had much taller ceilings and were more spacious than the rooms used by other members of the family.
A hanok’s harmony with the environment is also important. It considers the location, structure, style and building material, as well as the courtyard spaces. During the Joseon dynasty, housing was directly related to traditional social order as influenced by Confucian beliefs. The importance of being in harmony with the natural environment is an important part of Pung-su theory (wind-water) in Korean, Feng shui in Chinese, where certain sites or locations are considered more favourable or auspicious than others. The best location is where vital energy (qi) and balance can be found, bringing happiness and fortune to the residents.
The yang and yin principle governed the selection of both residential and grave site locations. Buildings are adjusted to existing geographical conditions in a manner that ensures harmony with the environment, and builders of traditional Korean housing would adhere to these concepts of geomancy. Hanok were usually built with their backs towards the mountains with soft contours; for example, slightly elevated roof corners. The entire building would be harmonised with its surroundings – ideally the open space in front of the hanok should be protected by a stream and one or two hills or mountains. Larger aristocratic residences comprised up to six buildings with adjoining courtyards enclosed by fences to show a clear separation between the structures. The low walls surrounding the hanok were predominantly designed for dividing inner household space, as their main role was to protect the inhabitants of the respective buildings – especially women – from unexpected visits or glances, both from non-family member guests and other household members
In accordance with the Confucian concept of separate roles for men and women, it was accepted that male family members were tasked with maintaining ties with the outside world. Therefore, their centrally located quarters (sarangchae) were clearly visible either directly after passing through the large main gate with a high upper roof (soteul daemun), or after crossing over the main gate and the courtyard in the servant’s quarter (haengrangchae). The sarangchae gradually evolved from a small room beside the front gate where guests would be received into much larger spaces. This evolution occurred at the same time as the patriarchal system became more established and the separation of the sexes was strictly demanded by Confucian society rules. The sarangchae became the symbol of a family’s authority, where the head of the household and the eldest son carried out their everyday activities. The master of the house occupied the most important room in the hanok – the study (sarangbang), which was used for dining, sleeping, reading, drinking tea, receiving guests, resting, studying, practising calligraphy, and playing music and games.
In contrast, the women’s quarters or inner quarters (anchae) were usually situated next to the sarangchae but behind a low wall. From here, the mistress of the house ran the household and managed the servants. The anchae was the working centre of the home and reflected the lives of women from the elite and noble classes during the Joseon dynasty period. After marriage, a woman moved into the anchae of her husband’s house and, in extreme cases, did not leave it for the rest of her life. In larger households, the anchae was composed of a mistress’ room (anbang), a daughter-in-law’s room (geonneonbang), a kitchen and a storeroom. The terrace for onggi (earthenware jars containing basic condiments such as soy sauce, soybean paste, red pepper paste, and salted fish) was also situated in the anchae for the women to manage. The female servants lived in the gobangchae which was situated next to the women’s quarters. By the beginning of the 20th century, in the cities, hanok were also built on a much smaller scale.
Over the centuries, many hanok fell into disrepair as the old-fashioned style of living had fallen out of favour. These old houses are hard and costly to maintain, and many people also migrated to the cities to find work, seeking the conveniences of a rapidly modernising Korea. In recent years, there has been a national movement, underpinned by the government, to rescue these traditional houses. The Hanok Stay Programme, initiated by the Korean Tourism Organisation, helps visitors find traditional hanok that are available for rent or as homestays. The Seoul Metropolitan Government has also established a Hanok Heritage Preservation Division to support a portion of the repair and rebuilding expenses for residents.
However, there are several other locations in and around Seoul, as well as in other parts of the country that still preserve the local hanok and are used for shops, restaurants, hotels, homestays, as well as residential use. Bukchon Hanok Village has been an established residential area in Seoul since the beginning of the Joseon dynasty and has preserved its traditional houses. Situated between the historic palaces of Gyeongbokgung and Chang-deokgung, it is an ideal base from which to explore the city’s historic architecture. Unlike some hanok villages, such as Namsangol Hanok Village, Bukchon was not created for tourists, it is still a mainly residential village in the heart of the city. In the Joseon dynasty, Bukchon was a residential area reserved for the nobility and did not undergo any significant changes until the 1920s. By the 1930s, Seoul’s administrative districts were expanded due to a rising population and the character of its districts changed rapidly with the growth of new buildings.
One preserved hanok, which has been turned into a museum in Bukchon, is Baek In-je House. Built in 1913 during the Japanese occupation, the house changed hands a few times before becoming the family home of Dr Baek. The house comprises sarangchae, anchae, detached quarters (byeoldangchae), and a garden. It also has distinctive features that sets it apart from other typical mansions of the period; the men’s and women’s quarters are connected to each other by a hallway, allowing residents to move easily between the two quarters. It also has Japanese-style hallways with some rooms having tatami mats. Reflecting the modernisation of the city in the early 20th century, red bricks have been used for some walls and glass windows have replaced traditional wooden lattices and frames backed with Korean paper (hanji).
In the last decade, modern hanok designed by architects have come into fashion. They maintain traditional architectural elements but are flexible enough to meet the variety of needs demanded by today’s families – continually evolving to react to changes in lifestyle, technology, and the demands of modern society. The term for these hybrid houses is sinhanok (new Korean house). They are in harmony with nature yet convenient for 21st-century life. These hanok are designed to maintain the traditional wooden framework but have more complex and functional interiors created using modern materials and eco systems that allow architects a freer hand to interpret and reimagine classical architecture while keeping the distinctive features of hanok. These new houses are now found throughout South Korea.
Seoul Hanok Week was introduced to promote hanok three years ago and has now become an annual festival that runs for approximately 10 days from the end of September. The event features a range of cultural programmes, exhibitions, and guided tours.
A map showing the various rental or home stay hanok can be found here: https://hanok.seoul.go.kr./front/eng/exp/expStay.do
